Dining for Dining's Sake

I'm never one to go to a restaurant just to dine, even when traveling on business. I'm more apt to venture out and sample the cuisine of the city.

I should consider reassessing that claim.

Embassy Suites, just west of 31st and Memorial, what has become the hub of extended-stay travelers, is the home of Cattleman's Steakhouse. Walking in, I felt as if I were a traveler in my own hometown---a nice feeling of getting away from the mainstream of life. My friends and I were welcomed at the restaurant's entrance and directed to our table. There was a choice of dining in the actual restaurant or the atrium area of Embassy Suites. We chose the coziness of the Cattleman's dining room. The décor is what one would image--cowboyesque, with a modest amount of tastefully-hung cowboy accessories. It was relaxing, intimate, and what I liked best is that when diners were seated, they were placed a few tables apart from others to maintain a bit of privacy. This was a nice touch.

Wilson was our server, and he took very good care of us. We selected the Crispy Bleu Cheese Potato Chips ($4.95) and Portobello Fries ($7.50) as our appetizers. These were both new to us, and naturally needed to be sampled. Other choices included Jumbo Shrimp Cocktail, Maryland Crab Cake, Scampi Bruschetta and Gilled Steak & Avocado Martini.

The Potato Chips were a plate of freshly fried chips with a chunky blue cheese sauce poured over them. Very tasty and textual opposites of crunchy and soft. The Portobello Fries were, likewise, a hit. These meaty mushrooms were sliced into spears then light breaded and fried. French fries accompanied them.

After our dinner orders were taken and we had consumed the Starters, Wilson brought us two baskets of hot sourdough bread, one of which was flooded with clarified butter, chopped onions and leeks. What a pleasant culinary surprise.

For our entrees, we had a good sampling of the menu: I ordered the 12 oz. Prime Rib ($21.95); another chose Fred's Pasta ($16.95); the third dining companion chose the Herb Grilled Chicken Breast ($13.95); and the fourth adult selected the Grilled Pork Chop with a Maple Glaze ($18.95). The youngster with us ordered the Private Reserve Cheeseburger with fries ($7.95).

The Prime Rib was grilled with a surface crispness to it. It was cooked to order, medium rare. It had a rich, high-quality taste about it. Fred's Pasta was a large bowl of penne pasta tossed with shaved Parmesan, tomatoes, artichokes, black olives and pesto; this was topped with grilled chicken and shrimp. My friend enjoyed this dish, saying the sauce was very light and delicious, coating the pasta perfectly but not overpowering it.

The Chicken Breast was simple, yet tender and rich with grill flavor. The Pork Chop was very tender and moist and had a hint of sweetness to it. The Cheeseburger was ideal for the young diner.

Yukon Gold Mashed Potatoes were served with the House Specialties--they are coarsely masked with the classic Yukon buttery taste. Sides I would recommend include the Buttered Green Beans ($2.95), which have a spicy kick to them, and the Asparagus with Sauce Béarnaise (a sauce of butter and egg yolks flavored with tarragon and shallots with chervil, then cooked in wine and vinegar) ($7.95).

Steak lovers need to add this place tp the list of those for serious dining consideration---the Omaha Steak choices are 12-oz. Top Sirloin, 7 and 12-oz. Filet Mignon, 12-oz. NY Strip Steak, 24-oz. Porterhouse and the 12-oz. Rib Eye, all priced under $34.

The desserts are tempting--Chocolate Lava Pudding and Obnoxious Chocolate Cake are a couple. I sampled the Big New Yorker Cheesecake ($6.95) and yes, it was big. I asked for a white chocolate glaze on top, which was the perfect topping and the ideal completion to this dinner.

Cattleman's Steakhouse & Bar

3332 S. 79th E. Ave.

622-4000

Hours:

Sun.-Thurs. 11am-2pm, 5-10pm

Fri.-Sat. 11am-2pm, 5-11pm

Rating:

Atmosphere *****

Food ****

Service *****