Damn That's Good, Momma

I recently visited a restaurant many may just pass by. At 5th and Sheridan, Freeway Café is not nestled in an area of town bustling with restaurants. But the café has been serving Tulsans for 20 years, and in the restaurant business, such longevity speaks volumes.

Freeway Café is simple--no frills, nothing that would set it off. The interior feels like a café, with table and bar seating. Diners strike up conversations with the wait staff or focus on the television while sipping their bottomless cups of coffee.

The kitchen knows how to cook authentic, home-style grub, and the menu screams of classic comfort food. When I dined here on a Saturday around lunchtime, the place was packed; my friend and I were lucky to get a table. The breakfast crowd was giving way to the lunch crowd, although many were continuing to order breakfasts for their lunch. Served all day, the breakfast menu consists of egg combinations (steak and eggs, pork chop and eggs, chicken fried steak and eggs, ham and eggs), hot cakes, omelets and homemade cinnamon rolls. While these meals are some of my favorites, my friend and I were more inclined to select from the lunch and dinner menu. These meals are served with a homemade dinner roll and the customer's choice of vegetables and tossed salad or soup.

These entrees include such classics as Chicken Fried Steak ($6.99), Hamburger Steak ($6.99), Grilled Chicken ($6.99), Roast Beef Dinner ($6.99), Grilled Pork Chops ($6.99), Liver and Onions ($6.99), Breaded Pork Chops ($7.50), 3-Way Chili ($6.99) and Smothered Steak ($7.50). Other selections include New Broasted Chicken Dinner ($7.50), Boneless Fried Chicken ($6.99), Popcorn Shrimp ($5.99) and Freeway Café Special-a beef, chicken or shrimp stir-fry ($7.50).

We were promptly waited on when we were seated at our table, and sipped hot coffee as we debated our selections. I settled on the Roast Beef Dinner while my friend had the seven-ounce Sirloin Steak ($6.99). We also selected Fried Okra ($3.50) for an appetizer to get us going. The okra was soon at our table, hot and crisp and a very generous serving--some of which we took home with us for a later snack. While it was obviously of the pre-made variety, the okra was fresh to the taste and welcomed by the palate.

As our meal was being prepared, I also placed an order for a cinnamon roll to go, which our server soon brought to our table, saying they go fast on Saturdays. I could see why. This roll was huge and covered generously with a thick layer of creamy frosting.

As our meal arrived, our table space grew smaller. A basket of large yeast dinner rolls took up some space and our side dishes took up the rest. My meal was a liberal serving of roast beef cut into reasonably-sized chunks and a mound of mashed potatoes topped with brown gravy.

This meal was one of the best I've had in a long time. The beef was seasoned well and was tender to the touch of my fork. The potatoes, while obviously instant, were a good match for the rich, brown beef gravy (probably also made from a package). The green beans were well-seasoned with bacon or ham, rich in taste.

My friend's steak was also tender and had a slightly seasoned taste. He selected French fries for his side, which were hot, crisp and fresh. Overall, he said it was a good steak.

Sandwiches, soups and salads, and a kids' menu are also featured. Some sandwich selections include Hamburgers, Double Meat Hamburgers, Bacon Cheeseburgers, Grilled Chicken Sandwich, Fried Chicken Sandwich, Club Sandwich, Philadelphia Steak Sandwich and Open-Faced Roast Beef Sandwich. Most are priced $6.50 or less. The desserts are supposedly some of the best, and while we did not sample any, pies and cobblers are the featured choices.

Freeway Café

465 S. Sheridan

836-8150

Hours:

Sun. 7am-3pm

Mon.-Sat.6am-9pm

Rating:

Atmosphere ***

Food *****

Service ****