Home is where the hearty is

The Battle of Shiloh, a major one during the Civil War, was of great significance to both the North and South. Fought in Tennessee, it was the largest battle up to that point of the more than four years of conflict that divided our country and many of our ancestors.

Fortunately for me, the only Shiloh conflict I've ever had to face was what to order for breakfast at Shiloh's Restaurant last week.

It was a tough choice, so I didn't make one. I ordered the country ham steak and eggs breakfast, with real-deal hash browns, a blueberry pancake, biscuits and made-from-scratch gravy, a Blue Ribbon cinnamon roll and a good hot cup of fresh coffee.

Speaking of ancestors, Pam and Teri, the current proprietors, can lay claim to their ancestors having been in the business since the late '50s, developing the family recipes as well as a reputation for quality food and service.

Shiloh's started in Glen Haven, Colo., relocated to Chandler, Okla., and is now home here in Tulsa. The owners recently opened a second location at 2604 N. Aspen Ave., in Broken Arrow.

Shiloh's is on solid footing with tried-and-true recipes for staples like buttermilk biscuits, giant cinnamon rolls, homemade pan gravies, beans and cornbread, goulash and yeast rolls the size of bowling balls.

The place was about half full around 10am and a young lady who may very well be the next generation of Shiloh owner seated me promptly and politely.

A large number of tables had children and the restaurant was a perfect fit for such a family style place. Shiloh's is most definitely family friendly, and accommodates kids very well.

The dining room is mostly booths, with a few large tables in the back that can be pulled together for large groups. Attractive flowered curtains frame the windows and the whole place has a wonderful, homey feel to it. By the time I left that Sunday morning, Shiloh's was completely filled with the after-church crowd.

I wonder if my server noticed my eyes almost pop out of my head when he served me a ham steak that was at least a quarter of an inch thick and as big as the plate it arrived on. This had to be an 8-10 ounce piece of ham. It was tender, smoky, salty and delicious. Next to it was a nice pile of dark brown hashed potatoes. These are the real thing -- not one of those pressed mashed potato patties that other places try to pass off as hash browns -- and two perfectly cooked, over easy eggs.

Next, my server placed a blueberry pancake down that spread to the edges of the plate. It was hot, fluffy and golden, and the butter melted immediately. A warm pitcher of syrup was placed next to it. Shiloh's has a variety of pancakes, including chocolate chip, strawberries and cream and whole grain, as well as a generous order of French toast.

Last but not least was a brown, flaky biscuit that was nearly as big as the pancake. Well, not quite, but let's say I'm glad I didn't order two. The biscuit was accompanied by a bowl of homemade white milk pan gravy that was peppery and creamy, with undertones of the bacon fat used in the roux. Good stuff!

Shiloh’s is on solid footing with tried-and-true recipes for staples like buttermilk biscuits, giant cinnamon rolls, homemade pan gravies, beans and cornbread, goulash and yeast rolls the size of bowling balls. FRANCES DODSON

A roux is the standard thickening agent for many sauces and soups, and is made by combining equal amounts of fat and flour, then cooking it to the desired doneness. There are essentially three types, a white, blonde and brown roux, and the degree to which it is cooked is based on what type of sauce it will thicken: white, blonde or brown.

Shiloh's cinnamon roll, which I dutifully took to my wife and mother-in-law after church, was sweet, tender, yeasty and full of cinnamon. It was quite tasty, but served as merely a vehicle to carry the incredible rich glaze into our mouths, much like bread pudding functions as a vehicle for bourbon sauce.

The Shiloh's folks offer all the other standard breakfast fare, plus a chicken fry and eggs, pork chop and eggs, and a sirloin steak and eggs, ranging from $7.99-$9.99, depending on whether you order single or double-meat portions.

All Shiloh's omelets and breakfasts come with fried or hash brown potatoes, scratch gravy and your choice of homemade toast, sourdough toast, wheat-berry toast or biscuits.

All the breakfast plates -- with the exception of the specialty items listed above at $8-$10 -- range from $4-$6. Great prices, good food and a home-style atmosphere add up to quite a breakfast bargain.

Lunch and dinner are no exception, and Shiloh's favorites appear to be a hand-breaded, pan-fried chicken for about $10, a bacon-wrapped hamburger steak, hand-breaded chicken fingers, and fried shrimp all just under that $10 mark. When I visited, I saw a blackboard special touting turkey and dressing with all the trimmings.

Entrée dinners, which include homemade rolls -- huge and delicious -- and your choice of any two sides from a giant list, run from $8-$12 with the exception of a rib eye for $18.99 and a 12-ounce sirloin for $14.99.

A nice variety of soups -- homemade of course -- salads, and sandwiches round out Shiloh's menu.

Desserts include homemade Kahlúa or Italian Crème Cake, Pecan Pie, and daily rotating flavors of homemade cobbler, fruit and meringue pies, all of which sell for $3.99.

Whole cakes and pies are available with advance notice, and might be a good way to fill the dessert void at the next family "I'll cook the hot dogs, you bring the dessert" gathering.

Service was a bit slow for the business the Sunday I visited, but in their defense there were a few large tables ahead of me. I thought the server could have been a bit more attentive, and several of his co-workers must have thought so too since they stopped by to check on me as well. Not a major complaint, merely a minor concern.

Shiloh's Restaurant

12521 E. 52nd St.

2604 N. Aspen Ave., Broken Arrow.

918-254-1501

shilohsrestaurant.com

Pricing: Very reasonable. Generally from $4-$12

Service: **

Food: ***and a half

Atmosphere: ***

Ratings scale:

Poor*

Fair **

Good***

VERY Good****

Wow!! This place is off the charts*****