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Pop the Cork!

Cork Wine Café misses the mark


BY KATHARINE KELLY

Pulling into a very busy large parking lot at 89th and Memorial, I was excited to try Cork Wine Café nestled among a number of businesses in this strip center. Upon entering, I was impressed with the décor. Tuscan in style, the stack stone look, the granite and wooden features gives Cork Wine Café a cozy and welcoming feel.



Heath Sharp

Guests seat themselves, which we did. Soon after, our server greeted and welcomed us and took our drink order. Since this is a wine café, we were up for trying a glass of wine. My friend ordered a glass of Sharecropper's Pinot Noir ($13), and I tried a new wine selection that came highly recommended by our server, Camino del Inca Malbec ($9). Both were easy-drinking and delicious although the Malbec had a slightly elevated temperature.

We reviewed the menu of Appetizers, Salads, Entrees, Sandwiches and Soups. All of the appetizers were appealing in name: Salsa Fuego, Smoked Shrimp Quesadilla, Hot and Crunchy Avocado, Caramelized Onion Dip, Hot and Crunch Shrimp, Veggie Quesadilla, Onion Ring Haystack, Queso and Mini Ahi Tuna Wraps. My friend and I thought the Hot and Crunchy Avocado ($9) would be the one to try. For this appetizer, the avocado cozies up with goat and pepper jack cheeses and then is rolled in Cork Wine Café's signature breading. Once fried, they are then served with an ancho and mango-jalapeno aioli. These three avocadoes were very tasty. Although they were almost at room temperature, the combination of the soft and crunchy, and the avocado with the cheeses was a remarkable blend of flavors and textures.

The entrée menu is small, yet has varied options from what one would expect on a full menu: Seafood Market Special, Lemon Caper Chicken ($16), Grilled Pork Chop ($26), Crusted Halibut ($26), Fish and Chips ($15) and Signature Orange Chicken ($12). My friend was eager to try the Fish and Chips while I was drawn to the Signature Orange Chicken. While our entrees were being prepared, we had time to enjoy our wines and look about the place.

Even though tables are situated a little too close together, we enjoyed the warm feel about the place. The many seating areas allow for those who want to watch sports on the TVs in one bar area and a second bar area is available without a TV distraction. We dined around 6:30pm, and the place continued to draw in customers. Two bars, table seating, and a few cozy lounge areas fill out this large space nicely. The two lounging areas are equipped with comfortable couches and coffee tables for an at-home feel.

Our entrees arrived, and we were more than ready to eat. The Fish and Chips had a good initial look while the plate presentation of the Orange Chicken was a bit phlegmatic, even listless. A thin chicken breast was pre-sliced into strips with an orange vodka sauce resting over the chicken. (I prefer to cut my own chicken.) This dish came with five large Merlot Mushrooms and squash and zucchini spaghetti. The chicken excelled in a grilled flavor, but it was dry. The orange vodka sauce was nothing to excite the palate except to moisten the chicken with each bite. The mushrooms, on the other hand, were the best item on the plate. These large mushrooms were marinated well, robust and rich with an earthy flavor of mushroom and wine. The squash and zucchini vegetables were soft, with little taste.



Heath Sharp

My friend's fish and chips were fair. Fish chunks were covered in a heavy batter which after being fried, was greasy and soggy. Of the five or so pieces, only two were edible. The fish in the others were too tough to cut with a fork, and even a little challenging with a knife and fork. The chips were very, very thinly sliced potatoes which were fried to crispiness; these were good, almost like potato chips.

For dessert, we shared the Cork's Famous Crème Brulee ($6). This brulee was different from others I have had in that the custard was loose, rather than firm. The taste was among the best I have had, but the thick, runny texture did not align with a classic brulee. It was rich, silky and creamy, but a chef once told me that an authentic brulee should be thicker, when a spoon inserted it can stand up tall and proud.

Cork Wine Café has a good list of wines, as it should. It is important to note that this establishment is for the 21 and older crowd. Service was fair; to her credit, she was managing a number of guests. I was hoping to gather some information about the menu and the other facts about Cork Wine Café, but after repeated calls to speak with the owners, Chris or Zach Collins, I never received a call back.

Still, I learned the evening I dined there that the kitchen is quite small, which consequently restricts preparations that are easily accommodated in full kitchens.

Send all comments and feedback regarding Eats to

kkelly@urbantulsa.com.



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COMMENTS
6 comments posted for this article
ZachAtCorkTulsaDotCom
 7/20/2012 - 9:57pm
   Miss Kelley:
   My name is Zach Collins and I am the owner and operator of Cork Wine Café. I remember seeing a message on my desk from you with a no rush on calling back attached to that memo. As a restaurant owner and operator I was unable to fit your call into my schedule in your window of time that you needed me to call you. I challenge you to come back, give us another shot at feeding you and another run at giving you the opportunity to become another one of the 100's of customers that we see on a daily basis. I'm also puzzled as to why you didn't send the inadequate dishes back to the kitchen or ask to speak to me when you all came in. If I am not managing front of house im in the kitchen pumping out dishes. Your next meal is on me; this will be an article to amend your second time around. I'm sorry for the missed communication and the unpleasant meal you had. I will knock your socks off the second time I promise.
   
   Keep in mind we are not a "RESTAURANT." We are a bar with really great bar food. We don't get eccentric in our dishes they're simple easy flavors that we've used for years and years in my family and with ideas from some others in the industry that were kind enough to develop for us. I'm not defensive like some of these others because restaurants do make mistakes. The orange chicken didnt make this new menu. The fish and chips were a fluke. Its a very light crusted batter, and a very nice thick flaky cod loin.
   
   Round 2 on me. GO! :-)
   I look forward to seeing you come in and please let me know when you're here so I can shake your hand and say hello.
   
   Zach Collins
   corktulsa.com
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SoTulsa
 6/16/2012 - 10:45pm
   The defensive commentary above is highly reflective of the attitude of the staff and manager at Cork tonight when I visited for the first time. Sadly, Cork does miss the mark on delivering the experience it promises as a "wine bar". The wine menu is limited, the staff is painfully uneducated on it's limited selection and the menu is a dissociative mess with no clear dedication outside of giving the impression of sophistication- e.g. odd combinations of flavor such as curry, vanilla, and saffron. Cork simply tries too hard and lacks the talent and experience to back up the lovely decor that reflects a significant investment on the owner's part. The wait staff was also unattentive and even turned outright sour upon receiving honest feedback for dishes that boosted high flavor elements in their menu descriptions but were stale, chewy, bland, and just simply ill prepared. A very disappointing experience. It does not at all surprise me to learn the "new" facility is actually a re-branding of Il Bacio that occupied the same space. Second attempts of this nature rarely succeed, and clearly tempers are high and easily injured by those who are still trying to force investments to yield.
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orion11
 5/17/2012 - 3:08pm
   I can honestly say I have not eaten at Cork and Wine. Reviews done by rank amateurs who do not cook professionally and have a modicum of of a palate do not count as a professional food critic. I don't blame the owners for not taking her calls as I recall in my experience UTW calls the day before and reviewer shows up on during a service, then you get a, a photog shows up and some time (uncpecified ), show up even sometimes for a call in order - after that she contacts owner for a phone interview . So basically it appears she horned in on the owners and when they didn't do an interview they got zinged, I pray that this article won't kill their business. Tulsa is a flighty group of customers, not a whole lot of loyalty.
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BobInTulsa, South
 5/17/2012 - 2:16pm
   Name calling and insults? I'm guessing first two comments came from the owners or members of their families.
   I have no connection to Cork or UTW and I'll take Ms. Kelly's write-up as fact. She's always does quality work. Suggesting she'd lie is pure silliness. It isn't often a restaurant reviewer criticizes an establishment. Good for Katharine!
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JonnyRocker13
 5/16/2012 - 4:09pm
   I'm astounded that the premier wine bar in Tulsa had an off temperature wine. Last time I checked they had the best system in Tulsa. The restaurant side of Cork has only been open a few months and has been amazing. I did not realize that Groupon made you a food expert. I think you need to get off your high horse and go back to school. Your writing is mediocre at best, and almost a contradiction. I hope the McDonald's or Taco Bell you normally eat at are treated better than Cork!
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Tulsafoodie918
 5/16/2012 - 11:43am
   I would like to know where this lady went to culinary school and where her background is to be a food critic... For starters, Cork Wine Cafe has to the BEST fish and chips I've ever had and I agree with Scott Cherry, from the Tulsa World (an accredited food critic) that the creme brulee is one of the best in Tulsa. Looks someone had to ride their bicycle from midtown to do a review of a South Tulsa restaurant and got a little bent out of shape along the way. Urban Tulsa has never supported south Tulsa businesses...SHAME! I hope Tulsans take this skewed review with a grain of salt.
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